Surviving in an Unwelcoming Land

The Torngats Mountain Base Camp is a miracle of sorts. Camping in the US is a popular activity and some camp sites have water hookups, electricity and toilets. But bringing electricity, flush toilets, fuel and food to such a remote area as Nain, Labrador, takes some doing. Nothing is easy here and every activity is…

BytarpleyJuly 26, 20242Comments

Labrador

The Torngats: It’s Been a Long Time Coming

Canada’s 42nd National Park is a cooperative development between the government and the native Inuits, who have lived in northern Labrador for thousands of years. The Torngats Mountaon Base Camp, where I am currently, is owned by the Inuits and their ancient burial ground is back in their possession. Archeologists dug up the Inuit graves…

BytarpleyJuly 25, 20240Comments

Newfoundland

Blight? Fire? Mother Nature? Climate change?

Newfoundland is green, green, green. Until it’s not. What is going on with all the dying trees? I wish Thompson was here; he would have told me immediately. Thompson, an entomologist, was my mother’s second husband. I would go on a nature walk with him and return transformed by all that he taught me…

BytarpleyJuly 24, 20242Comments

Newfoundland

How is A Lighthouse keeper Like a King?

Never have I pondered this question until I visited Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse historical museum near Gros Morne National Park. Lighthouse keeping is a family business. You are a keeper until you die, then your eldest son becomes keeper. A keeper never leaves the lighthouse; if there is business to be conducted with the keeper…

BytarpleyJuly 23, 20241Comment

Newfoundland

Tiny Towns, Tiny Houses

The island of Newfoundland has a population of 525,000 and a third of these inhabitants live in the capital of St. John’s. Corner Brook, the second largest city, where I stayed upon arrival, has about 20,000 residents, a veritable metropolis compared to Glenbournie-Birchy Head- Shoal Brook, where I am lodging for the next three days…

BytarpleyJuly 19, 20241Comment

Newfoundland

I Come From Away

Why Newfoundland? First, because of the Broadway play “ Come From Away” about the town of Gander that took in 7,000 stranded airline passengers on 9/11. I had to meet these generous people. Second, I read Michael Crummey novels about the early settlements along the harsh, unforgiving coastal areas in Eastern New Foundland. What a…

BytarpleyJuly 18, 20240Comments

Iceland 2018

An Aurora Capture!

Iceland’s winter, August to April, is the only opportunity to see the northern lights. As well, they are visible primarily in the dead of night and the sky must be totally clear. It has been mostly cloudy this trip with intermittent rain. Last night the sky cleared and we were told we might…

BytarpleyDecember 21, 20180Comments

Iceland 2018

One Tomato, Two tomato, Three Tomato, Four

Who knew there is a year round tomato farm in Iceland? The featured image shows my granddaughter, Rowan, sitting at a table decorated with a vase of fresh basil. We had lunch here this afternoon. The entire menu features only tomato recipes: tomato beer, bloody Marys, soup or a stack of tomatoes on a skewer…

BytarpleyDecember 18, 20180Comments

Iceland 2018

Seeking A Whiter Shade of Pale

Who knew there are so many colors of dusk. We were prepared for only 4 hours of daylight in Iceland yet it is light enough between 9:30am and 4 pm. We arrived at the Blue Lagoon from the airport yesterday morning and were in the hot springs by 9:30 enjoying the sky. Yes,…

BytarpleyDecember 18, 20184Comments

Bolivia 2018

The Cholets: Symbols of New Andean Wealth

As mentioned in a previous post, the tony South Side of La Paz is unwelcoming to indigenous Aymarans. And the newly wealthy Aymarans do not want to live on the South Side because, money or not, they wish to preserve their local customs, which includes washing clothes by hand and hanging them out to…

BytarpleyFebruary 9, 20180Comments